seaward of the step is a low gradient nearshore (wave shoaling) zone composed of finer sediment (Figure 1). There is no bar or surf zone, rather waves break by surging or collapsing over the step. ...
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seaward of the step is a low gradient nearshore (wave shoaling) zone composed of
finer sediment (Figure 1). There is no bar or
surf zone, rather waves break by surging or
collapsing over the step. ...
