Criteria for Choice and Consumer Consumption Habits of

Transcrição

Criteria for Choice and Consumer Consumption Habits of Fashion Products and Apparel
Critérios de Escolha e Hábitos de Consumo do Consumidor de Produtos de Moda e Vestuário
Submission: Apr./24/2015 - Approval: Sept./10/2015
Maria Zulmira Bessa Amorim Nascimento Cunha
Doctorate of business sciences from Universidade Fernando Pessoa - Porto and Region, Portugal.
Former at Raul Dória Association 2011-2012 (1 year) - Porto and Region, Portugal. Professional and
technical education, modular Discipline: Marketing (Senior Technical Marketing Professional
Course). Training in the context of work at the advertising agency of the School - Markideias (Senior
Technical Marketing Professional Course). Former at Edmundo Ferreira School - EPROMAT 20112012 (1 year) - Matosinhos professional and technical teaching modular, Discipline: Merchandising
(10th year of window dressing). Communication (10th year of Marketing) 2008-2011 (3 years) - Area
Manager Spain Escada Group S.A.U. Head Coach Nike EMEA.
E-mail: maria14276gmail.com
Professional address: Rua de Galicia - P02C - Complemento - 2B - 36850 - San Sebastian/Salvaterra
do Miño - Espanha.
ABSTRACT
Fashion and clothing are elements of daily life. While sociocultural phenomenon were winning, over
the centuries, the ability to express the values of the society in which they are inserted. In this case,
values, habits, habits and customs are understood at any given time and specific location, since they
are constantly changing due to factors influences exerted by social and cultural aspects of the country
in which they fall. However, fashion is, too, an area of activity. In Portugal, where tradition, is an
extremely important sector. The textile and clothing industry in Portugal, represented in 2012, 9 of
the total exports. Are singled out as major customers of the Portuguese textile and clothing industry,
as countries: Spain (31), France (14), Germany (9), United Kingdom (8), and Italy (6). This article
analyzes the criteria for choice and consumer consumption habits of fashion products and apparel.
KEYWORDS:
Consumer´s attitude, fashion and clothing, marketing communication.
RESUMO
A moda e o vestuário são elementos do cotidiano. Enquanto fenômeno sociocultural foram ganhando,
ao longo dos séculos, a capacidade de expressar os valores da sociedade em que se encontram
inseridos. Neste caso, valores, usos, hábitos e costumes são entendidos em determinado momento e
local específico, uma vez que são fatores que mudam constantemente devido às influências exercidas
por aspetos sociais e culturais do país em que se inserem. Porém, a moda é, também, uma área de
atividade. Em Portugal, onde tem tradição, é um setor de extrema importância. A indústria têxtil e de
vestuário em Portugal, representou em 2012, 9% das exportações totais. São apontados como
principais clientes da indústria têxtil e de vestuário português, países como: Espanha (31%), França
(14%), Alemanha (9%), Reino Unido (8%) e Itália (6%). Este artigo pretende compreender quais os
critérios de escolha e hábitos de consumo do consumidor de produtos de moda e vestuário.
PALAVRAS-CHAVE:
Atitudes dos consumidores, moda e vestuário, comunicação de marketing
PMKT – Brazilian Journal of Marketing, Opinion, and Media Research (ISSN 2317-0123 Online), São Paulo, Brasil, V. 17, p. 22-42, October, 2015
- www.revistapmkt.com.br
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1
INTRODUCTION
The garment is a set formed by pieces that make up the costume and accessories that serve to secure
it or complement it. In a broad sense of the term, clothing is an anthropological factor almost
universal, since, in most ancient and contemporary human societies are used items of clothing and
accessories to adorn the human body. Used as an interface between the man and the natural
environment and cultural heritage, the clothing has multiple functions whose origins are complex and
cannot be reduced to its functionality. Their practical and symbolic aspects seem to be inseparable,
resulting in the drafting of which the abstract language and the making of objects (NACIFL, 2007).
According to Neves and White (2000), Barreiro (1998) and Kawamura (2005), sets can be seen as a
system comprising a set of people and organisations in a permanent process of creating symbolic
meanings and their subsequent transfer to cultural assets. Therefore, the fashionable clothes becomes
a symbolic production.
Saviola and Testa (2007) state that encompasses a wide range of products such as clothes, but also
shoes, handbags, jewelry and all the Add-ons. The Dicionário Aurélio (1989, p. 1146), presents the
definition sets like "use, habit or passenger style that governs the way you dress, wear, comb and
other resulting from particular taste, idea, caprice and the influences of the middle". Many point out
that fashion is much more than the way of dressing. Palomino (2002) states that it is a system that
integrates the simple use of the day to day clothes, in a much larger context, political, social and
sociological.
It must be understood that fashion is not something frivolous and unimportant. Even if you present a
"system, with its ceaseless metamorphoses, their movements and their extravagances"
(LIPOVETSKY, 1997, p. 73), she has an important role in the economy and influence many
consumers.
After a panoramic view of the existing reality in the sector of fashion and apparel products at national
level, it was considered important to make an analysis related to the phenomenon of consumption of
products of fashion and clothing in Portugal. To fulfill the general objective, this research left the
following questions:






2
In the context of the Portuguese consumers (of products of fashion and clothing), which is the
CSI model applicability of Sproles and Kendall (1986) and dimensions that constitute?
Is it possible to group consumers of fashion and apparel products based on the dimensions of this
model?
What is the importance of clothing and fashion for consumer groups identified?
What is the frequency of purchase of products of fashion and clothing of those consumers?
What is the attitude of these groups of consumers in relation to attendance in the commercial
space?
What is the attitude of those consumers in the face of some of the main brands marketed in
Portugal?
CONSUMPTION OF PRODUCTS OF FASHION AND CLOTHING
There are many lines of study seeking to understand and anticipate how consumers use their time,
money and effort in time to effect a purchase. However, the behavior is in itself complex in nature,
24
so the challenge remains among researchers from various fields of knowledge. Even within the field
of Psychology and differences emerge different chains or definitions for the concept (AYROSA;
SAUERBRONN; BARROS, 2007).
Fashion and clothing while socio-cultural phenomena have gained the ability to express the values
they are: uses, habits and customs of a particular time and place (DICKERSON, 1999). Arise then
specific styles dictated only by the need for differentiation, in which the important thing is to only be
different (COATES, 2003). These styles are intended to just demonstrate the way of living in the life
of a given group of consumers. Thus, the variable importance of fashion and apparel products to the
consumer, it is of great importance and value.
In the process of choice are various criteria of buying decision. To Kotler and Armstrong (1993),
there are several factors of influence and decision criteria for the purchase of clothing and fashion
products such as motivation, personality and even consumer perceptions.
In this way, the study of the variables considered of value passed through evaluation of sensitivity to
quality, since a large proportion of consumers tend to seek quality in the products they buy, because
without quality there is no success (HADIYANTO, 2007).
Sensitivity to price has been another of the variables under study. It is common to realize that
consumers use both the price as the brand as an indicator of quality (RAU; MONROE, 1989). Several
studies claim that a high price appeals to the vanity of consumers (KOTLER; KELLER, 2006). The
reputation of the brand is another of the variables under study and presents itself as the ability of a
potential consumer recognize and remember certain brand.
On the other hand, innovation in fashion and clothing is associated with an interaction effect on
society in which consumers who adopt an innovation, influencing other consumers that have not yet
done (KEEGAN; GREEN, 2000). Innovators are leading this process of adoption of fashion products
and may seem too bold for the designated followers. Jordaan and Simpson (2006) found that highly
innovative people tend to take more risks and to be opinion leaders by being better informed.
The variable brand loyalty is one of the main measures of consumer connection with the brand,
reflecting the consumer Outlook change to another brand, especially if the brand competitor makes a
change, either in price or in the product characteristics (AAKER, 1998).
According to a study conducted by Garretson et al. (2002), consumers of fashion and apparel products
are faithful to brands and feature a strong propensity to buy the same brands, so it is unlikely to opt
for new brands or brands who do not know. On the other hand, Baltas (1997) suggests that consumers
of brands of fashion and clothing are likely to switch brands by the fact of seeking variety.
3
METHODOLOGY
The questionnaire is suggested by Quivy and Campenhoudt (2008), while data collection method as
a way to find out life types, behaviors, values, knowledge, expectations, opinions and attitudes about
the options.
Its use is recognized and applied in various fields such as analysis, consumer behavior (WIMMER;
DOMINICK, 1996) and, therefore, your design must be based on clear, concise questions and in
25
accordance with the objectives of the research. In other words, their structure should, on the one hand
integrating clear and unambiguous questions and, on the other hand allow data collection needs of
researchers.
The purpose of this last point, Quivy and Campenhoudt (2008) state that the quantitative data
treatment resulting from the application of a survey questionnaire, involves questions with preencoded limits of responses on the part of the respondents.
Data collection through questionnaire and the quantitative analysis of the data by using different
statistical techniques and methods can be observed in a multiplicity of research work.
From the use of the quantitative method with data collection by questionnaire and taking into account
the fact that if they wish to examine attitudes, intentions and behaviours, but also to define
quantitatively the results, this study falls within the descriptive research design (BURNS; BUSH,
2006).
In gathering data for the empirical work was chosen an auto fill questionnaire that involved 575
individuals aged between 18 and 65 years, resident in Mainland Portugal.
The scales used were those of Sproles and Kendall (1986), Consumer Styles Inventory (looking for
quality, innovation and low price tag and sensitivity; high price; hedônico; consumption impulsive
purchase; confusion by oversupply and brand loyalty), which have been adapted and served as basis
for the final design.
Initially, the questionnaires were pre-tested by a group of 30 individuals of potential respondents.
Since no anomalies were verified and difficulties of interpretation and filling, the questionnaires were
distributed to AutoFill (attendance). Non-probability convenience sample was composed by 600. Of
these, have been validated questionnaires 575 because 25 presented irregularities in its fill. The
fieldwork was carried out between September 1, 2013 and January 30, 2014. Filling out the
questionnaire took, on average, about 20 to 30 minutes.
For the purpose of data treatment resulting from the administration of the questionnaire was used
statistical software IBM SPSS Statistics.
4
ANALYSIS OF RESULTS
At this point, it presents an analysis and discussion of the results. Any statistical approach previously
referenced will be instrument used in fulfilment of the objectives.
In terms of the General profile of the sample, in particular with regard to age, the subjects were
grouped into five age groups. The first group comprised individuals of 18 to 25 years is was composed
of 117 respondents. The group represented by individuals from 26 to 35 years performed with 129
respondents. Of the 36 to 45 years emerged a group with 112 elements and 46 to 55, years, gold group
with 102 respondents. Finally, the last group of 56 to 65 years, with 115 respondents. This
characterization of the sample prepared in age groups aims above all the creation of the most
homogeneous psychographic profiles as possible.
26
Regarding gender, the 575 respondents present in the sample, 333 are women, representing
approximately 58 of the total sample and 242 are men, accounting for the remaining 42.
There is, therefore, the existence of a relationship of balance between the two genders. However, the
existence of a number of women than men, doesn't claim a proportional but statistical rigor respects
the trend reported by the National Statistics Institute.
With regard to the sample distribution by educational qualifications, the sample shows that only two
of its respondents hold qualifications to the level of elementary school, the preparatory school level
131, 253 to secondary level, 126 are licensed and 63 are holders of master's degrees or doctoral
qualifications.
As for the net monthly income of individual respondents, were created four ranges of values. Thus,
it was noted that 202 respondents (about 40 of the sample) receive less than £ 500, 285 (about 50)
receives between 501€ and £ 1000, 80 respondents (8) receive between 1001 € and £ 1500 and only
8 respondents (2) receive between 2,000 and 1501€.
In order to complete the demographic characterization of the sample, it is important to understand its
geographical origin. In this way, you can verify that the sample consists of 201 respondents of the
port which represents about 35 of the sample, the Portugal Centre presents itself with 213 respondents
representing 37, South with 121 and 21 and, finally, the Islands emerge with only 40 respondents
(sample 7).
4.1 ANALYSIS OF THE INTERNAL CONSISTENCY OF THE SCALES
After the characterization of the sample and since used latent variables, each of which consists of
several items, the first step was to verify the internal consistency of the scales. For this we used the
Alpha of Cronbach's alpha (α).
Proceeded to the examination of the internal consistency of the scales so they could be later merged
in their compounds, since each of the dimensions to be analyzed were composed of multiple items
and that would make the analysis more difficult.
In the process of internal consistency analysis proceeded to some adjustments. On the "demand for
innovation" have been deleted two items in the original range, ("To diversify buy in different shops
and choose different brands" and "it's fun to buy something new") so as to achieve a proper Alpha
value (0.7).
Also in the dimension "brand loyalty" was deleted an item from the original scale ("when I find a
product or a brand I like, I stick"). The criterion for this was exactly the same as mentioned earlier.
The Alpha of Cronbach's alpha (α) is an important indicator of statistical reliability, being sometimes
called coefficient of reliability of a scale. The higher the correlation between items of a dimension or
scale, the greater the Alpha of Cronbach's alpha (α). For this reason is also known as internal
Consistency test. The Alpha of Cronbach's alpha (α) can take values between zero (0) and one (1). A
good value for the Alpha of Cronbach's alpha (α) would be 0.7 or above, obtained with a significant
sample (PARKER, 2006).
27
Thus, the analysis of the Cronbach's alpha, you can check that six of eight dimensions obtained a
value equal to or greater than 0.7 α that is considered appropriate and just two dimensions obtained a
Cronbach Alpha value equal to or greater than 0.6, α ("looking for low price" and "brand loyalty").
Chart 1 turns the scale on the "quality" shows a value of Cronbach's Alpha of 0.839 considered good
and reliable. Moore and McGowan (2001) present a value of internal consistency a lot shorter (0.450
α) for its study on the Polish consumer. So, here a disagreement related to the results.
CHART 1
Internal consistency of the scales.
DIMENSIONS
Looking for
quality
Sensitivity to
brand and the
high price
Demand for
innovation
ITENS
Buy fashion and apparel products of good quality is very
important to me.
In general I try to buy the best quality products.
At the time of purchase I try to make the best choice.
I go out of my way to buy products of the highest quality.
Really give a lot of importance to what buy.
My demands for the products I buy are very high.
As I value quality, with the first product or brand that date.
To satisfy me, a product has to be perfect.
For me, the brands of fashion and clothing are the best.
I choose usually the more expensive brands.
The higher the price the better product is its quality.
The fashion stores and specialty clothing offer me the best
products.
I'd rather buy the best-selling brands.
The most famous brands are usually a good choice.
I usually have one or more pieces of the latest trend.
Keep my wardrobe according to fashion trends.
Be in fashion is very important to me.
ALPHA DE CRONBACH
0,839
0,927
0,776
Buy as much as possible the sale price.
Looking for
low price
Hedônico
Consumption
Impulsive
purchase
Confusion by
oversupply
Usually choose the lowest price.
Looking for products with an affordable price.
Buy fashion and clothing products is a nice activity for me.
Shopping is one of the pleasures of my life.
Shopping is not a waste of time.
I like to go shopping for the pleasure it gives me.
I spend a lot of time shopping.
I should better plan my purchases than they normally do.
I am impulsive when I shop.
Often I shop casually, of regret later.
Sometimes I dedicate the time it would take to make the best
buys.
I can hardly control how much is spent.
There are so many brands of fashion products and apparel to
choose which often feel confused.
Sometimes it's hard to choose the stores where you shop.
The more I know about the products, the harder it seems to be
choosing the best.
0,624
0,897
0,933
0,839
28
Brand loyalty
The information I receive about the different products are so
many that confuse me.
I have fashion product brands and favorite clothing buy
always.
I always go to the same fashion stores and clothing every time
I go shopping.
Do not change brands often.
0,658
With regard to "sensitivity to brand and the high price" the internal consistency of the scale shows a
value of 0.927 considered excellent and reliable. This value is concordant with the presented by
Moore and McGowan (2001), where you can find an Alpha of Cronbach's a little low, but quite close
(α 0.840).
The "demand for innovation" features an Alpha value of 0.776 considered reasonable reliability.
Despite the value presented is relatively lower than the previous ones, it's still a good value for an
Alpha of Cronbach's alpha. The value achieved is a little taller than that presented in the study of
Cardoso et al., (2009) Alpha of 0.604. The value of 0.604 already presents as poor reliability.
The scale "search for low price" has a value of 0.624 regarded as poor reliability. This is effectively
a very low value for an Alpha of Cronbach's alpha. This value of Alpha comes into collision with the
results of the study of wedge (2010). In this study, achieved an excellent and reliable 0.904 α.
As regards "Hedônico Consumption" the Alpha value presented is 0.897 considered good and
reliable. The value mentioned appears higher than the value achieved in study of Teixeira and
Hernandez (2012) in which the value of the coefficient of internal consistency, Cronbach's alpha was
slightly higher than the 0.7.
The scale "impulsive buying" presents a reliable and excellent 0.933 value. This result presents itself
quite higher than the value obtained by Costa et al. (2004) which is slightly above 0.7.
"Confusion by oversupply" comes up with an Alpha of Cronbach's Alpha in 0.839 value considered
to be good and reliable. "Brand loyalty" has a value of Cronbach's Alpha 0.658 regarded as poor
reliability. This is, again, a very low value for an Alpha of Cronbach's alpha, once the minimum
acceptable value for is considered reliable is 0.7.
In short, the dimensions feature, as a whole, an acceptable internal consistency. Leaving those results,
continued to the statistical analyses.
4.2 CLUSTER ANALYSIS
Once the relative analysis of Cronbach's Alpha of scales in study, now proceed with other statistical
analyses. Therefore, and since one of the purposes is to prepare an essay of types of products
consumers of fashion and clothing in Portugal has produced a cluster analysis.
Cluster analysis was prepared while exploratory multivariate analysis technique, which allows you to
delete and group a set of entities in homogeneous groups (PASTOR; GAGEIRO, 2003; MAROCO;
BISPO, 2003).
29
In this study, the purpose of analyzing a typology of consumers of fashion and clothing products has
been verified through the Division of the sample into different segments. Then devised its
characterisation in relation to other variables.
According to Maroco and Bispo (2003), in the hierarchical method, the clusters are grouped according
to similarity between themselves or divided into subgroups according to their distance measures. In
non-hierarchical analysis, the number of clusters is determined by the browser. According to Pereira
(2006), the two methods can be used in sequential mode. The first, to get a reference to the possible
number of clusters and, second, to find the perfect clusters.
There are five steps in the cluster analysis: selection of cases or individuals, definition of variables
that will serve as a basis for the grouping of cases or individuals, section of a measure of similarity
or distance between cases or individuals, choice of premises that substantiate the aggregation or
disaggregation of cases or individuals and, finally, the validation of the results obtained.
The selected variables and through which held the sample group of consumers of fashion and apparel
products were eight. These eight variables have a direct relationship with the consumption of products
of sets and costums: demand for quality; trademark sensitivity and high price; demand for innovation;
looking for low price; hedônico consumption; impulsive purchase; confusion by oversupply; and
brand loyalty, as shown in Table 1.
TABLE 1
Identification of segments (Zscores).
DIMENSIONS
Looking for quality
Sensitivity to brand and the high price
Demand for innovation
Looking for low price
Hedônico consumption
Impulsive purchase
Confusion by oversupply
Brand loyalty
CLUSTER 1
(n=123)
-1,625
-1,822
-3,331
-0,149
-0,414
-0,619
-1,344
-1,346
CLUSTER 2
(n=49)
0,118
-1,356
-0,859
-2,610
-2,483
-2,240
-1,832
-3,376
CLUSTER 3
(n=362)
1,227
0,664
1,200
1,256
0,902
0,820
0,360
1,089
CLUSTER 4
(n=41)
-3,527
-0,734
0,788
-0,149
-0,037
-0,799
-1,832
-0,128
In this context, and after set the variables, these were homogenized in terms of the values of
dimensions, turning them into Zscores. The process of normalisation of variables is convenient in
order to put them on the same scale of measurement. Without this standardization any distance
measurement will reflect the weight of the variables that have a higher value and higher dispersion
(PASTOR; GAGEIRO, 2003).
Also if the hierarchical grouping and the respective dendrogram analysis as a way of understanding
the process of aggregation. In other words, understand how individuals are part of the given thread.
This procedure served as a reference for the next phase, where a nonhierarchical grouping.
In order to obtain the optimal number of clusters extractions were carried out with different numbers
of clusters. Based on the values obtained were assigned designations to segments. So, the Cluster 1
presents the "Utilitarian" with 123 individuals; the Cluster 2 presents the "far away" with 49; the 3
Cluster "provides pleasure" consisting of 362 and, finally, the 4 Cluster with the "Followers of
fashion" with 41 individuals.
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4.3 DESCRIPTION OF SEGMENTS
Aimed at the characterization and comparison of the segments are referenced against a set of
variables, an analysis of variance (ANOVA). This test allows you to compare different medium in
more than two groups (PARKER, 2006).
Each thread has a set of indicators that makes them different and, therefore, that could be
characterized (whenever there is significance). References "Post Hoc" present in the tables
correspond to the result of the average comparisons between the clusters, allowing to realize what the
hierarchy of attitudes of the segments given the different variables. This hierarchy is represented by
the sign "" and when the threads do not statically significant differences between them, are only
separated by semicolon sign.
Table 2 presents the description of the segments. The first segment, with a designation of "Utilitarian"
consists of individuals targeted by the criterion of truth to practical utility or pragmatism. Utilitarians
value the practical issues and do not have a visible consumer activity. Characterized by being
straightforward in their purchases and, therefore, in the context of store, go immediately to the desired
products. Usually opt for holders of some quality products at a price considered accessible. Are
consumers seeking quality at a low price.
TABLE 2
Description of the segments.
DIMENSIONS
Looking for
quality
Sensitivity to
brand and the
high price
Demand for
innovation
Looking for low
price
Hedônico
consumption
Impulsive
purchase
Confusion by
oversupply
Brand loyalty
CLUSTER
1
CLUSTER
2
CLUSTER
3
CLUSTER
4
Fashion
followers
GLOBAL
AVERAGE
F
P
(Sig.)
POST
HOC
Utilitarian
Distants
Hedonics
3,45
(0,50)
3,19
(0,33)
4,16
(0,47)
2,07
(0,97)
3,78
(0,78)
249,425
0,000
3>1>2>4
2,51
(0,75)
1,53
(0,38)
4,35
(0,15)
2,98
(0,17)
3,62
(1,07)
1,265
0,000
3>4>1>2
2,71
(0,56)
3,86
(0,29)
2,09
(0,50)
2,48
(0,18)
2,99
(0,36)
3,07
(0,38)
3,58
(0,22)
3,03
(0,73)
2,57
(0,59)
1,00
(0,00)
2,00
(0,00)
2,11
(0,53)
4,01
(0,67)
3,38
(1,10)
4,38
(0,19)
4,27
(0,16)
4,56
(0,45)
4,28
(0,36)
3,93
(0,52)
3,65
(0,31)
2,92
(0,60)
2,50
(0,10)
2,71
(0,64)
3,32
(0,40)
3,69
(0,80)
3,47
(0,94)
3,64
(1,06)
3,48
(1,11)
3,88
(1,02)
3,77
(0,82)
141,387
0,000
3;4>2>1
12,738
0,000
1>3;4>2
1;4>3>2
1,408
0,000
3>4>2>1
9,266
0,000
3>1;4>2
879,117
0,000
3>1>4>2
643,279
0,000
3>4>1>2
The "Utilitarian" are consumers looking for products with no utility valuing products price (high)
calls for the own personal vanity (KOTLER; KELLER, 2006). Are consumers of low prices even
when this reinforces the lack of low quality (HWANG et al., 2006). By seeking in context of store
only products they need are consumers with low propensity to impulsivity in almost 80 purchases of
clothing and fashion products (BRAHAM, 1997).
31
In this segment, consumers are indifferent to the remaining variables and not manifest hedônico
consumption. That is, if not seduced by the selfish pursuit of momentary pleasures, opting for the
opposite side of the scale. Are consumers for which the objects are not generators of pleasure or
happiness (BAUDRILLARD, 2005).
As regards the second segment, designated as the "far away", we can say that consists of consumers
targeted by the detachment. The "Distant present as a consumer group, apparently disconnected, loose
and too indifferent to the consumption of products of fashion and clothing. Are consumers giving
importance to quality that is a weight variable in the decision to purchase products of fashion and
clothing (ZEITHAML, 1988) and innovation. Innovation is a feature segment effectively "Distant"
and highly motivated for a detachment to fashion and apparel products (CHOLACHATPINYO et al.,
2000).
However, the segment in question cheapens the brand. The reality is that the brand is one of the main
measures of consumer connection (AAKER, 1998). However the propensity to freedom and the
motivation for the constant search for new styles do not allow this thread to be loyal to any brand.
These consumers "Distant" demonstrate an attitude of indifference toward the other variables.
As regards the name "provides pleasure" segment and as its name indicates, are geared for enjoyment
of consumption. The results obtained, it turns out that this consumer group lives in great evidence of
consumption and abundance created by the multiplication of the objects and services
(BAUDRILLARD, 2005)
The provides pleasure like fashion and apparel products and seek to find them, quality. Are a segment
of consumers who consume anything, it's a kind of passport to eternity and consume frantically is be
a pilgrim on a journey toward heaven (rock, 2005)
Enjoy the marks, although this predisposition so favorable or unfavorable to certain brand breaks a
self-assessment linked to products of the brand in question (BURTON et al., 1998). Enjoy also the
products of the moment. Can, therefore, be considered innovative in any way, since they spend a lot
of money in fashion and apparel products (GOLDSMITH et al., 2005) and can be influenced (HSU;
CHENG, 2008). In addition, innovators are willing to pay a higher price for new products and are
more insensitive to prices (GOLDSMITH et al., 2005), which is consistent with the results achieved,
which shows that this segment gives importance to low price although not in a way.
A group of consumers are aware of the diversity of products on the market, which, somehow, seems
to pass next to the other groups. This consumer group values almost all variables.
Finally, the segment of the "Supporters of fashion". This consumer group is guided by the affordable
fashion. Possibly are supporters of fast fashion, since, apparently, like in fashion, but spending little
money.
The fast fashion or Quick Response System (ERNER,2005) surge como consequência da
globalização de tendências, versatilidade e efemeridade que a identidade assume na sociedade
moderna (REINACH, 2005; PRIEST, 2005) e garante a satisfação dos seus consumidores por meio
da disponibilidade da moda in vogue a preços muito acessíveis (AZUMA; FERNIE 2003). Are
consumers loyal to the brand, but practically indifferent to almost all other variables.
32
4.4 IMPORTANCE OF CLOTHING AND FASHION
With regard to the importance of the clothing and according to Table 3, it is easy to see that virtually
all segments give importance to clothing. However, the segment of "Distant" is what you value less.
TABLE 3
Threads in the face of the "importance of clothing" and "the importance of fashion".
DIMENSIONS
UTILITARIAN
DISTANTS
HEDONICS
FASHION
FOLLOWERS
GLOBAL
AVERAGE
Importance of
clothing
Importance of
fashion
4,16
(1,41)
2,04
(0,54)
3,80
(0,61)
2,24
(0,66)
4,06
(1,00)
4,06
(1,00)
4,00
(0,00)
3,44
(0,50)
4,05
(1,04)
3,43
(1,23)
F
P (SIG.)
POST
HOC
1,475
0,220
-
198,725
0,000
3>4>1;2
With the development of the times changed and became capable of valuing individual issues and
characteristics of the cult of appearances. The clothing as cultural phenomenon has gained the ability
to express the values whether the uses, habits or customs, of the given time and place (DICKERSON,
1999).
Fashion and clothing are ephemeral and competitive areas of society, taking on enormous importance
to the consumer of today (BROEGA et al., 2008). Fashion and clothing have emerged that the man
had, even in prehistory, to protect themselves from the cold. However, over the years there was an
intrinsic desire to change, gradually led the evolution to the clothing and stylish. The "Followers of
fashion" and "provides pleasure" are the groups who most value sets.
For the "provides pleasure", the objects are referenced as generators of happiness. The desire for
possession, more than one feature, it is a requirement of happiness that can be measured for objects
and signs (BAUDRILLARD, 2005).
In view of the "supporters of fashion", the products celebrate qualities beyond the utilitarian attributes
provided by the functionality they offer. The "Fans" are usually market leaders in the field of fashion
at the beginning of each season and have a considerable influence on the market (PHAU; YOU,
2004).
4.5 FREQUENCY OF PURCHASE
In assessing the frequency of purchase and, in particular, the study on frequency of purchase on your
own, you can check the "provides pleasure" are those who buy fashion and apparel products with
greater frequency.
It turns out that, 14 of consumers belonging to the segment of "provides pleasure", go shopping alone
every week. If you speak in a monthly value, the percentage grows to almost 50. This is a fact quite
normal in the segment, since the pursuit of happiness through the acquisition of the object is typical
on provides pleasure (BAUDRILLARD, 2005).
As already mentioned, the "Followers of fashion" are considered to be market leaders within the
clothing and fashion (PHAU; YOU, 2004) becoming, so consumers who follow. According to Table
4, the "Fans" are buying about 44 of every month. However, it is also presented to another group of
33
"Followers of fashion", possibly more moderate, with about of 56, and you buy once every six
months.
TABLE 4
Given the frequency of purchase segments alone.
FREQUENCY OF
PURCHASE
SEGMENTS ALONE
Less than once every six
months
Once every six months
Once every three months
Once a month
Once a week
UTILITARIAN
DISTANTS
HEDONICS
84,6%
77,6%
0%
(104)
(38)
(0)
15,4%
22,4%
0%
(19)
(11)
(0)
0%
0%
38,7%
(0)
(0)
(140)
0%
0%
47,2%
(0)
(0)
(171)
0%
0%
14,1%
(0)
(0)
(51)
Qui-Quadrado (6,722; p=0,000)
FASHION
FOLLOWERS
TOTAL
0%
(0)
56,1%
(23)
0%
(0)
43,9%
(18)
0%
(0)
24,7%
(142)
9,2%
(53)
24,3%
(140)
32,9%
(189)
8,9%
(51)
Finally, two segments they buy with very little frequency: the "Utilitarian" and "far away" (table 5).
TABLE 5
Given the frequency of purchase segments with fellow.
FREQUENCY OF
PURCHASE SEGMENTS
WITH FELLOW
Less than once every six
months
Once every six months
Once every three months
Once a month
Once a week
UTILITARIAN
DISTANTS
HEDONICS
84,6%
12,2%
(104)
(6)
15,4%
10,2%
(19)
(5)
0%
24,5%
(0)
(12)
0%
0%
(0)
(0)
0%
53,1%
(0)
(26)
0%
(0)
0%
(0)
47,8%
(173)
47,2%
(171)
5,0%
(18)
FASHION
FOLLOWERS
TOTAL
0%
(0)
56,1%
(23)
14,6%
(6)
0%
(0)
29,3%
(12)
19,1%
(110)
8,2%
(47)
33,2%
(191)
29,7%
(171)
9,7%
(56)
Another aspect of this study is the frequency of use with partner studied in Table 5. So and as regards
consumption accompanied, some changes. It turns out that the segment of the "Distant" prefers to
buy with company.
On the other hand, the segment of "provides pleasure" buy a lot. However the difference for shopping
you do alone is minimal. Implying that buy anyway. Inherent characteristic hedônicas personalities
living in pursuit of pleasure consuming which is the image of this segment (BAUDRILLARD, 2005).
The "Followers of fashion" follows the same line and also have more consumers who buy
accompanied by that alone.
34
In short, the purchases are made in the company of the companion or partner, seem to always be
superior. Effectively, the product of fashion and clothing is a type of product that involves exchange
of ideas and opinions because they are products of social use.
4.6 ATTITUDE TO SERVICE TYPE
The type of care can be divided into two periods: the personalized service and self-catering. The
personalized service is another of the points evaluated in this article. So, you can check the thread on
"Distant" consumers are those who most value the personalized service. This fact can be justified by
the lack of involvement with the fashion and apparel products, once for being less involved in this
type of consumption, less present, need to hear some suggestions.
However, from the perspective of Belch and Belch (1998) the personalized service is considered a
privileged communication tool that involves selling through a process of personal communication. Is
very present in the sector of fashion and apparel products, once the personal relationship is largely
developed by store vendors the relationship created with customers. Sometimes, becomes an essential
link in the process of sale (MARTINEZ; VASQUEZ, 2006).
Already the segment of "Utilitarian" finds it very important the personalized service. The
"Utilitarian", by search and highlight the practical issues of products and how not to have a visible
consumer activity, like having a secure. In this case, who has more knowledge is obviously who
works with the product.
On the other hand, with respect to the segment of "provides pleasure", consumers appear more
independent, they want to walk into a store and find what they want, without the employee at his side.
No value, so the personalized service.
The "Followers of fashion" follows the same line and are appreciating even less the personalized
service. The second point of the study of care is self-catering. In this case, the thread of "fashion" and
Supporters of "provides pleasure" are the threads that prefer self-catering. These consumers are
connoisseurs of fashion and roam the store looking for products, enjoying it and not needing the
support of the sellers of the store.
TABLE 6
Description of the segments regarding the attitude to the kind of care.
ATTITUDE TO
THE KIND OF
CARE
UTILITARIAN
DISTANTS
HEDONICS
FASHION
FOLLOWERS
GLOBAL
AVERAGE
F
P (SIG.)
POST
HOC
Personalized
service
3,42
1,847
4,12
,331
2,53
,500
1,44
,502
2,78
1,149
86,081
0,000
2>1>3>4
Self-service
2,31
1,595
3,63
,994
3,89
1,024
4,05
1,048
3,54
1,334
58,806
0,000
2;3;4>1
The segment of "Distant" presents itself as a group of consumers who value self-catering almost as
much as value the personalized service; the segment of "Utilitarian" no self-service, which devalues
confirms and reinforces the attitude that they have vis-à-vis the personalized service (Table 6).
35
4.7 ATTITUDE TO BRANDS
Finally, it was analysed the identification between each of the segments and ten marks were identified
and selected. The objective was to analyze the brands with which each segment identifies itself more.
According to Kotler (2000) a brand is a product or service that aggregates dimensions that
differentiate it from other products developed to satisfy the same need. You can set "attitude towards
brand" as a predisposition to respond so favorable or unfavorable, the particular brand. Obviously,
this predisposition will leave a product evaluation, purchasing eou self-assessment linked to products
of the brand in question (BURTON et al., 1998).
Therefore, it is concluded that the segment of "Utilitarian" identifies more with two classic brands of
prompt delivery, such as Massimo Dutti and Cortefiel. These brands are on the market with an offer
balanced between quality and price. Are brands with a traditional design consistent with a segment
that seeks to balance the quality with the price (Table 7).
TABLE 7
Identification between segments and brands.
DIMENSIONS
Dielmar
Gant
Massimo Dutti
Cortefiel
Pepe Jeans
Zara
C&A
Adidas
Nike
Sportzone
UTILITARIAN
DISTANTS
HEDONICS
FASHION
FOLLOWERS
2,98
(0,15)
2,88
(1,01)
3,94
(1,09)
3,94
(1,09)
2,89
(0,93)
2,88
(1,38)
3,25
(1,50)
3,34
(1,70)
4,20
(1,32)
4,52
(1,05)
2,53
(1,43)
2,90
(0,54)
2,94
(1,50)
3,24
(0,66)
2,49
(1,12)
2,94
(0,55)
3,90
(0,54)
4,0
(0,34)
2,63
(1,57)
2,96
(1,29)
4,42
(0,82)
4,44
(0,73)
4,46
(0,71)
4,42
(0,77)
4,44
(0,76)
4,39
(0,75)
4,35
(0,64)
4,34
(0,72)
4,35
(0,74)
4,29
(0,92)
2,44
(0,50)
2,73
(1,02)
3,95
(1,37)
2,56
(1,39)
2,78
(0,79)
5,00
(0,00)
3,5
(1,41)
3,83
(1,30)
2,80
(1,24)
2,76
(1,20)
GLOBAL
AVERAGE
3,81
(1,13)
3,85
(1,11)
4,18
(1,04)
4,09
(1,05)
3,82
(1,16)
3,99
(1,15)
4,02
(1,05)
4,07
(1,11)
4,06
(1,17)
4,12
(1,14)
It is visible that the segment of "Utilitarian" identifies with two sports brands. Nike that is a mark of
great notoriety and mainstream. In this case, with a slightly higher price is offset by the popularity
and impact that the brand has. And the Sportzone which has a product offering comfortable, sporty
and affordable.
The segment of "Distant" identify with the CA, a low-cost brand without personalized service, where
they can move freely and meet a wide range of products. However, this segment also identifies with
a brand of big sports notoriety: Adidas.
36
The Adidas brand presents a price between Nike and the Sportzone with self-service stores. Strangely
not present the affordable price corresponding to this thread but with self-catering allowing them
freedom of movement and purchase of product. The segment of the "Hedonistic" follows the trend
observed in previous results and great motivation to the consumption of this type of product.
Demonstrate a positive attitude in the face of all brands. Are what you call heavy users with regard
to fashion and apparel products.
The "Followers of fashion", according to what had checked earlier, looking for clothing and fashion
products at a low price. And, indeed, the preference of this group is unanimous: all group members
expressed a high score in the face of the brand Zara. Zara is the maximum fast fashion icon these
days. Sets of quality and low price that pass sets quickly.
4.8 DEMOGRAPHIC PROFILE OF THE SEGMENTS
With regard to the demographic profile of the segments we can affirm that the segment of "Utilitarian"
is quite balanced. The segment of "far away" has a majority position in males. However The "provides
pleasure" and the "Followers of fashion" are mostly made up of women (Table 8). These results agree
with the study prepared by Palace (2007) as the female values more attractiveness in the form of
dress, because they prefer attractive and exuberant clothes. Thus, the "dress up" and the constant
search of satisfaction by fashion seems to be central to this group. According to the author, may also
give enough importance to the brands they buy.
TABLE 8
Demographic profile of the segments.
SEX
UTILITARIAN
Female
48,8%
(60)
51,2%
(63)
Male
DISTANTS
HEDONICS
26,5%
64,1%
(13)
(232)
73,5%
35,9%
(36)
(130)
FASHION
FOLLOWERS
TOTAL
68,3%
(28)
31,7%
(13)
57,9%
(333)
42,1%
(242)
As regards age, the segment on "Utilitarian" is composed heavily for young adults (26-35 years and
36-45 years). The "Distant" also feature with many individuals in the range of 26-35 years and 36-45
years. However, the younger (18-25 years) are very small, representing only 2 (Table 9).
TABLE 9
Demographic profile (age).
AGE
18-25
26-35
36-45
46-55
56-65
UTILITARIAN
14,6%
(18)
26,0%
(32)
28,5%
(35)
9,8%
(12)
21,1%
(26)
DISTANTS
HEDONICS
2,0%
27,1%
(1)
(98)
40,8%
16,9%
(20)
(61)
24,5%
18,0%
(12)
(65)
18,4%
18,5%
(9)
(67)
14,3%
19,6%
(7)
(71)
FASHION
FOLLOWERS
TOTAL
0%
(0)
39,0%
(16)
0%
(0)
34,1%
(14)
26,8%
(11)
20,3%
(117)
22,4%
(129)
19,5%
(112)
17,7%
(102)
20,0%
(115)
37
The segment of "provides pleasure" is heterogeneous since there are individuals of all age groups.
Essentially, most of the "Supporters of fashion" are young adults (26-35 years) and older (46-55 5665 years and years).
With regard to the monthly income individual liquid, you can check that, of all groups, the
"Utilitarian", are the individuals with higher incomes. So, despite having average yields and high are
pragmatic. Interestingly, among the "provides pleasure", those who have greater motivation for
consumption, are the highest percentage of individuals with income less than or equal to Eur 500.
Despite low incomes, have a strong involvement with the consumption of products of fashion and
clothing (Table 10).
TABLE 10
Demographic profile (income).
INCOME
UTILITARIAN
DISTANTS
HEDONICS
FASHION
FOLLOWERS
TOTAL
- 500 €
13,0%
(16)
22,4%
(11)
47,2%
(171)
9,8%
(4)
35,1%
(202)
501 a 1000 €
21,1%
(26)
65,0%
(80)
0,8%
(1)
87,8%
(36)
0%
(0)
2,4%
(1)
49,6%
(285)
13,9%
(80)
1,4%
(8)
1001 a 1500 €
1501 a 2000 €
5
77,6%
51,1%
(38)
(185)
0%
0%
(0)
(0)
0%
1,7%
(0)
(6)
CONCLUSION
This article was intended to determine what the main consumption habits and motivations that drive
consumers to buy and was based on the application of a questionnaire which included the eight scales
of Sproles and Kendall (1986), Consumer Styles Inventory. In this way, and in the context of the
Portuguese consumers of products of fashion and clothing, was to understand how the applicability
of the model of Consumer Styles Inventory of Sproles and Kendall (1986) and the dimensions of
which it is composed. It was concluded that, overall, the dimensions of the model of Sproles and
Kendall (1986) present an acceptable internal consistency and these data confirms the applicability
of this consumer template Portuguese.
The second question was intended to see how you can group the consumers of clothing and fashion
based on the dimensions of this model. Four segments were identified: the "Utilitarian", "far away",
"provides pleasure" and the "Followers of fashion".
The third question (what is the importance of clothing and fashion for consumer groups identified?),
obtained some findings by research carried out. It was found that, in General, all threads attach
importance to clothing. However, are the "provides pleasure" and the "Followers of fashion" those
who really give importance to the factor "sets".
In order to figure out what the frequency of purchase of clothing and fashion products of these
consumers, (fourth question) it was possible to notice that the results are in line with the previous
ones. That is, the "provides pleasure" and the "Followers of fashion" are those who buy more often
38
this kind of products. On the other hand, the "Utilitarian" and "Distant" carry your purchases in a
more casual and sporadic.
What is the attitude of these groups of consumers with regard to attendance in the commercial space?
It was also one of the points studied (question 5). Upon the results established in this article, the
"Utilitarian" and "Distant" prefer the personalized service, which is understandable, because being
individuals less attuned to fashion may need more support at the point of sale. On the contrary, the
"provides pleasure" and the "fashion" Fans prefer self-catering, also understandable behavior,
because being more informed about the fashion and apparel products prefer to make their choices
more freely, without the support of personalized service.
Finally, it was intended to realize what the attitude of those consumers in the face of some of the main
brands marketed in Portugal (question 6). It was found that the "provides pleasure" have, in General,
a positive attitude in the face of all brands, which translates the spirit of consumers who enjoy clothing
and fashion in General. The "Followers of fashion" have a positive attitude in the face of brands like
Zara, showing a distance in relation to other groups. This result says a lot of these consumers that
give importance to fashion, but also give much attention to the price. The "Utilitarian" value the most
classic brands such as Massimo Dutti and Cortefield and sports brands like Nike and Sportzone. The
"Distant" are indifferent to most brands.
6
LIMITATIONS AND SUGGESTIONS FOR FURTHER RESEARCH
The present study showed a perspective of the phenomenon of consumption of products of fashion
and clothing, intending to examine the criteria for choosing and spending habits of the consumers of
products of fashion and clothing. It could have been built a base survey with a larger number of
variables as a way to complement the research.
With regard to suggestions for future studies, it is believed that the concept could be more developed
in terms of academic research on what may be considered a greater number of malls and other
variables.
Given the importance of this theme sociological or economic terms, it is suggested to researchers in
the areas of management, marketing and communication studies to deepen specific aspects of this
broad phenomenon, bringing new contributions to the panorama in the area of consumption of
products of fashion and clothing.
7
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